Roadtrip Peru, Bolivia & Chili - Part 13
Valparaiso – Wednesday 27-09-2023
Early in the morning, we agreed on a second city walk. This time we go uptown. Again, we have an appointment at the central square Plaza Sotomayor where we meet guide Wally (Naty). In fact, they are all addressed by the same name, Wally.
We walk through a small part of the city centre, visiting the local market place. But the market place is deserted. It is too expensive to rent a space there and the vendors look for a place on the street. A pity because it is a beautiful building with many possibilities. We take the bus and head uphill. From the highest point, we walk down past the various sights. Again, we enjoy all the narrow coloured streets, the graffiti and beautiful views. Eventually we arrive at Parque Cultural de Valparaiso. Traditionally a prison but rebuild as a Cultural Centre on the initiative of the local residents. Very nicely done!
After more street art, we come to the end of the city walk. Again very worthwhile. What a beautiful city Valparaiso is!!! We look for a place for lunch and end up at a restaurant with a great view and delicious food.
La Sebastiana -> Pablo Neruda
After a delicious lunch, we decide to go to Pablo Neruda's house. As the house is on top of the mountain, we take a taxi.
Pablo Neruda(Parral, 12 July 1904 - Santiago, 23 September 1973) was a Chilean poet and Nobel laureate. Neruda was born Ricardo Eliécer Neftalí Reyes Basoalto. As his father did not want him to be a writer, he wrote under the pseudonym Pablo Neruda, after the Czech poet Jan Neruda (1834-1891) whom he admired. Pablo Neruda later became his official name.
Some of Neruda's poems Lara loves.
" Não te amo como se fosses rosa de sal, topázio
ou flecha de cravos que propagam o fogo:
amo-te como se amam certas coisas obscuras,
secretamente, entre a sombra e a alma.
Te amo como a planta que não floresce e leva
dentro de si, oculta a luz daquelas flores,
e graças a teu amor vive escuro em meu corpo
o apertado aroma que ascendeu da terra.
Te amo sem saber como, nem quando, nem onde,
te amo diretamente sem problemas nem orgulho:
assim te amo porque não sei amar de outra maneira,
senão assim deste modo em que não sou nem és
tão perto que tua mão sobre meu peito é minha
tão perto que se fecham teus olhos com meu sonho."
Pablo Neruda - NERUDA, P. Cem Sonetos de Amor.
" Talvez não ser,
é ser sem que tu sejas,
sem que vás cortando
o meio dia com uma
flor azul,
sem que caminhes mais tarde
pela névoa e pelos tijolos,
sem essa luz que levas na mão
que, talvez, outros não verão dourada,
que talvez ninguém
soube que crescia
como a origem vermelha da rosa,
sem que sejas, enfim,
sem que viesses brusca, incitante
conhecer a minha vida,
rajada de roseira,
trigo do vento,
E desde então, sou porque tu és
E desde então és
sou e somos...
E por amor
Serei... Serás...Seremos...
Pablo Neruda - Cem sonetos de amor
"Quero apenas cinco coisas...
Primeiro é o amor sem fim
A segunda é ver o outono
A terceira é o grave inverno
Em quarto lugar o verão
A quinta coisa são teus olhos
Não quero dormir sem teus olhos.
Não quero ser... sem que me olhes.
Abro mão da primavera para que continues me olhando."
Pablo Neruda
Valparaíso – cemetery
After house Pablo Neruda, we planned to go to Cementerio de Disidentes, but end up at Cementerio N° 2. The gate appears closed but with some creativity we get it open. When we are inside, to our surprise we are addressed by a gentleman who is watching everything! Shit!!! The best man is not amused but after a few friendly words we are allowed to walk on. We had the idea we can walk from one cemetery to another but unfortunately a very large wall prevents our passage. Through a small back gate, we leave the cemetery and walk downhill to the harbour for a harbour tour.
Valparaíso - harbour
After another fantastic day in Valparaiso, we walk to the harbour for a harbour cruise. Valparaiso a city full of charm, with winding streets, colonial-era coloured mansions and a unique atmosphere that enchants you. Street art everywhere, colourful murals and graffiti adorning the walls. So fascinating!!! We wandered around for over two days but were far from seeing everything. You can stay in this beautiful city indefinitely without getting bored for a single moment.
We check in for the boat and then the long wait begins. The skipper does not want to sail until he has enough customers. This proves difficult at this late hour. After 30 minutes of waiting, we want to leave but the skipper has just chartered a few more customers and we leave for the cruise. A relaxed trip through the harbour. After all the walking, it is great to sit back and relax. After a short but pleasant trip, we head to our hotel where we enjoy a nice cold beer and peanuts of course.
